Author Topic: Oil (Read 1554 times)

Bug Maniac · « **on:** November 22, 2005, 12:00:51 PM »

I am confused, want to give the bug a change of oil, as not sure when it was last done, but have conflicting stories of what to use, some say 15/40 others say 20/40?

.

Also I am running 165 tyres at the front and 205 at the rear what should the psi be.

Thanks in advance for help.

68IIIbuggy · « **Reply #1 on:** November 22, 2005, 08:26:20 PM »

I am a religeous user of Castrol 20w-50 in everything from my 59 chevy flatdeck to my 74 bmw motorcycle..........and all my vws. Never had a problem in hot or cold weather.

vwboop · « **Reply #2 on:** November 22, 2005, 08:39:43 PM »

We swear by straight 30 weight.

1blk66 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 22, 2005, 09:10:13 PM »

I've had the same good results as 68IIIbuggy with 20w-50 (Castrol as well go figure). Although last fall/winter I ran 10w-40 with no apparent problems.

In terms of the PSI, I would figure manufacturers recommended pressure. I think I generally run between 28-32 psi on 135's front and 165's rear.

Cheers

Needles · « **Reply #4 on:** November 22, 2005, 09:15:53 PM »

Remember people he's in the cold winter over there in 'Jolly ole England'!

I always ran Penzoil 10-40W in winter and Penz 20-50w in summer...

68IIIbuggy · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2005, 06:10:27 PM »

England's not cold! Their winters are about the same as ours, unless you in Northern Scotland!

silas · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2005, 09:55:36 PM »

canola.

then you can cook meals on your motor...just like ryan price.

egspot · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2005, 10:23:26 PM »

My opinion:

If I was racing the engine I may use 50w or synthetic oil. I used to put 50w in the Caribbean. Now I am use 10-30w. The debate I believe is that you like to have good lubrication as well as good cooling on air-cooled engine with consideration to your oil pressure. In the summer 40 or 50w will break down and provide lubrication while also cooling the engine. In the winter you may want lubrication as soon as you start you engine or risk excess wear.

With respect to the tires, the pressure depends on the car specifications. The tire will dictate the maximum. The weight of the car and the suspension has to be considered such that you have traction and control without over wear oh the tires. You are not running stock settings therefore I would say try and experiment a bit so that you feel the car perform under current conditions.

Emilio

AlanU · « **Reply #8 on:** November 24, 2005, 08:28:51 AM »

In a moderate climate like Vancouver I'd say straight weight is a waste of time. The oil will pour thick like as 30 when cold and maintain the characteristics is viscosity as a 30 at operating temperatures.

This is the whole point in the development of multi-grade. 10w30 pours thin when cold and will provide the characteristics of a 30 weight at operating temperatures.

If your not getting low oil pressure at operating temps a 30 weight will do just fine. 15w40 will work as well but now you can see that 15 weight will be thicker at colder temps and have thicker characteristics when at op temps.

this is where I think synthetics are great because with abuse to the oil the oil you'll still be assured good shear strength and hopefully the oil additives will provide proper viscosity. This will all depend on condition of engine and if your running rich you'll fuel wash the oil and contaminate it. There is no substitution to good ol' synthetic because it is superior to mineral oil.

I use PAO based synthetic 10w50 from elf which is a good 13-15 dollars a liter but bought alot to last a while. If I do switch brands when my supply runs out I'll use a redline synthetic because its Ester based and seriously has good additives not to mention the most superior synthetic base \"ESTER\"

Silas your right about some oils ^_^ Ester is known to be rape seed aka canola oil. Not 100% certain but thats what apparently motul uses as a base for some of there products but that can be hearsay too.

Success of oil is determined by cracking the case and looking at the lifters amongst other things. Even the best oil cant prevent some crappy lifters from pitting. I guess this is where people can live by \"ignorance is bliss\" an hope they are having no issues with pitting lifters. Rampy cams will wear the lifter bores regardless if you use the best oil in the world. THINGS JUST WEAR OUT.

I think my oils done well since i've lost no valve lift. If you havent even checked that your just assuming for the best.

Needles · « **Reply #9 on:** November 24, 2005, 08:21:54 PM »

Quote

England's not cold! Their winters are about the same as ours, unless you in Northern Scotland!

Check it out...Its pretty damn cold there now...

68IIIbuggy · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2005, 07:00:16 PM »

It's prettydamn cold here too!!