Author Topic: Jim Martin  (Read 71302 times)

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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #270 on: October 14, 2012, 09:42:45 AM »
a few late nights 2 weeks ago allowed me to finish the mock up and final weld of the turbo header,holly crap it was a real pain trying to get all the pieces to come together, talk about slow progress with endless cutting and trimming  .
i ordered from my favorite place, JEGS , two 3" V band clamps and one 3" J bend pipe made of 3" 18 gauge mild steel tubing  .
i used the top half of the dyno header and went from there .i needed it to snake down tight between the #4 pipe and the turbo flange up pipe which gave me the room needed to clear the mechanical pump and oil lines as well as leaving enough space for a nice smooth radius for the tip to pass through the centre of the rear apron ,well it fits well and was a great tig welding project .
the V band at the tip allows me to switch between a race bullet for the track  and a muffler for the street.
sent it out on last Friday for coating ,one of my work colleges (thanks Jake) lives out that way and was nice enough to pick it up this afternoon from the coaters and since he was coming into Vancouver dropped it off.
man it looks good .


oh well time to wrap it up .takes some practice but I've got header wrap down to a science .
just waiting for my stainless steel zip ties witch will replace the rubber bands.also this time
i safety wired the header wrap ever 3-4" .will do the rest of the lower pipes as well as it really makes for a secure fit .


had to get it in and it was a bit tougher sliding in ,amazing what a slight difference in thickness makes .
well it did snake in and looks really good .between the ceramic coating and the header wrap i would hope this will help drop temperatures as well as make it safer as there was no doubt it would be just
a matter of time before i would burn myself.


seen the weather ! everyone needs a hat ,or at least a turbo blanket


i did not know the difference or better yet the names or styles of the different turbo set-ups and when looking for a turbo blanket using there supplied measurements they were way to big .my turbo is a old school ON-CENTRE where the exhaust housing is centre of the exhaust flange and not the newer style that looks like a snail shell i believe that design is called something like tangible ? i may be way out on that name .but contacting Garrett i got a part number for one they make and of course ordered it from JEGS.




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #271 on: October 14, 2012, 04:59:44 PM »
re&re'd the oil filter assemble ,took it all apart and cleaned her up .no choice as a few things are changing especially line and fitting placement .the filter base is still the same return style housing I've been running for years ,works great and actual tested the return valve and hooked it up to the compressor and T'd in a pressure gauge and at 82 psi it started to open , not bad .take a look at Jaycee's web site it has some great products .JAYCEE oil filtration is always a big issue with any motor ,and since its very possible my oil can become diluted with methanol which in fact can break down a paper filter element , so it was time to step up to something really decent. this unit is unbelievable and is better than any paper based unit and way easier to use and clean and monitor engine internals .i took it apart and its pretty well built .no more cutting HP1 filters open again   LAT OIL FILTER

« Last Edit: October 14, 2012, 05:03:15 PM by jim martin »




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Offline josh

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #272 on: October 14, 2012, 09:53:05 PM »
I have the same bypass setup....what do you have off the branch of that Tee? check valve or?? Are we gonna see the rest of the oil system?

Really looking forward to the end product!!! Keep it up Jim!
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #273 on: October 16, 2012, 06:09:55 AM »


goes like this
= 90 coming into the brass tee is from engine oil pump output to filter input
= 90 in middle of bypass filter base is out from oil filter back into motor
= from the bypass valve there is a "T" ,the bottom hose from T is bypass return back to sump
= the hose at top of T is input to electric system priming pump
= output from priming pump goes to one way check valve that is attached to pump output/filter input
when the electric pump is turned on it uses the return hose as its oil feed and pressurises the engine oil pump/filter lines and complete motor .use it before every start as well as have let it run when i need to do a quick engine shut down .
has been a very reliable setup over the years




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Offline josh

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #274 on: October 16, 2012, 05:52:10 PM »
Just a bit more complex than your basic full flow job eh?

I will be figuring out something similar as I have an accusump to pipe into my oval one day, thx for the breakdown :rockon: :rockon:
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #275 on: November 03, 2012, 10:50:38 AM »
there are 3 lines that need to be run from the engine back to the tank .
AN-12 supply line (bottom left),AN-6 fuel return (upper left)and a AN-6 boost reference to the turbo valve on the fuel cell (straight up) .
i must admit after removing my old aluminum lines in the tunnel i was not looking fwd to
routing 3 new lines ,but it went so smooth i could not believe it .
here's a spy shot down the tunnel .snapped it and then capped it back up


cleaned up the turbo boost valve and finally mounted it to the fuel cell .
replaced the rubber diapram and internal seals .nice to take these parts apart and see whats all involved in there operation .

all the unused fuel under any engine running condition returns through it via the AN-6 line on the passenger side of the valve .
and when boost pressure is applied to the AN-6 line on the drivers side the boost pressure pushes a diaphragm that moves a piston which restricts flow to the tank and richens the mixture under boost /load .a little more to it than that but you get the idea .


removed the original cell fuel foam and have replaced it with a methanol safe foam .some like it and others dont but for me if it stops the fuel from splashing around and it does 2 things .keeps the fuel low in the tank as well as stops it from causing weight shifting by restricting fuel movement .4 pieces will cover the bottom and 1 extra directly below the turbo valve to help prevent excessive aeration of the returning fuel .

stuffed in there ,you can see the extra block place directly below the turbo boost valve return.

all in and fits very well with very little air gaps ,but just enough to check fuel level using my painters wooden stir stick

replaced the removed filler cap

had to weld up a new 90 deg fitting for the return line ,but it was a fun tig project and clears the hood and
the new stainless vent line looks great .
ready for fuel


going to make some rubber caps next week and cover the point where the lines entre the tunnel .
« Last Edit: November 03, 2012, 11:14:25 AM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #276 on: November 26, 2012, 11:46:19 PM »
all the major modifications and fabrication and upgrades to make this motor work in the WOK are done , friggen about time .i must admit it looks unbelievable and i cant wait to fire it up  .and its been fun making all the upgrades and bits and pieces along the way but it all needed doing and redoing .one thing I've done is tried to made sure everything is accessible and serviceable so it can easily be worked on , yes its friggen tight in there with all the lines etc but it seams to work, and I've had to get in and remove parts more than once so i can install another many times without any major hassles.so far so good .
sorry for the bad photos but lets get caught up .

- the 4 lines coming up are for oil temp/oil pressure/engine vacuum/boost pressure.
was nice i was able to use old holes and not have to plug them up or better yet drill more  .I've been pretty lucky as my poor car has had so many motors upgrades there's more mounting holes and guide holes then i can count from all the bits added or removed .that's speed i guess


 - the breather after it leaves the tank connects to a coiled line that is chemical safe and exits in the same old place under the vehicle and is capped with a small k&n filter to prevent dust and dirt entre


- the AN-12 as well as the other 3 lines exit in the same point as before which is through a hole to the right of the transmission  .the fuel supply sneaks in behind the breather tank and connects to a Hilborn in-line fuel filter .the 3 lines on top are the fuel return,boost pressure and oil pressure lines.and the oil temperature probe is in the lower frt right of the sump.



- over the header and connecting to a 90 and a T fitting before finally getting to the pump .the red valve valve is T'd into the fuel supply so i can easily drain the complete fuel system for flushing and maintenence when needed .




- talking about making things accessible .there is going to be a huge learning and tuning curve with this motor , one thing i have done is resprung the wastegate unit ,gotta walk before we can run .so this means removal and instillation of the wastegate unit will happen multiple times and even thou it looks like it wont ever come out it removes easily and can be out and apart on the bench in less than 15 min , see if you can see it in some later photos .the turbosmart wastegate was original set with 14 lbs worth of springs .it was decided to pull it apart and set the waste gate to 7 lbs worth of springs and get my plumbing and boost controller operating 100% before stepping up .its a very simple unit and comes with a nice ring wrench and you simply spin the aluminum ring off and separate the top cover and add or remove springs .this also allowed me to rotate the top and bottom  port positions to give better line placement which made connecting the wastegate to the solinoid simple .

there are 2 basic ways to plumb this wastegate .based on whether the turbo system has high or low back pressure , i was originally plumbed for high backpressure but had some questions and after talking with Marty at turbosmart things got cleared up and i became allot wiser  .so i will take his advice and plumb for low backpressure for the first run as it wont hurt a thing and will give a great starting point to get things operating smoothly .now i'm no expert as there is so much science to do with turbo sizing etc ,but i'm pretty hip to how the whole boost control thing works and in a nutshell goes like this .the wastegate spring sets the min boost your system should in theory make .for me i should make 7 lbs of boost with the 7 lb spring .and at that point the boost pressure will overcome the 7 lb spring and open the wastegate and bypass exhaust gases past the exhaust impeller and directly out the tailpipe ,this slows the turbo and of course decreases boost inlet pressure and maintains 7 lbs in the system .now this is where i will now learn if my system is indeed high back pressure or not .if i cannot make anywhere close to my 7 lbs of boost that would possibly mean my exhaust system up to the point of the exhaust impeller is backing up causing a positive pressure in the exhaust system and that positive pressure would push against the 7 lbs of spring pressure and help lift the wastegate valve off its seat prematurely and cause the exhaust to bypass the exhaust impeller sooner and slow the turbo down and of course drops boost pressure way down .so i would either need to increase the spring strength or go back to the high backpressure plumbing as before .the high backpressure plumbing simply puts some boost pressure to the top of the wastegate housing and aids the spring in keeping the wastegate valve closed allowing the system to build its set boost level , all of course this is in theory and needs testing .
this is when i was figuring the lines out and missing is the one 90 deg on the centre port .and its just a matter of moving the lines around and i can switch from the low or high system backpressure plumbing in minutes .this setup is for the high backpressure setup


- fuel shutoff installed and plumbed before the fuel metering block .need to figure out where i'm going to mount the fuel cut lever in the car before ordering cable .


- fuel return and bypass lines , a easy bracket to make and stops everything from floppin around


- throttle return spring  and bracket setup , 1 per side . added the 3rd spring just in case


- all the plumbing's in on the left side .lots' hose


-at least the plug wires are in ,#1 and #3 are a bit tuff to get to .hope i can get the plugs out




-there so much going on i figured toss up some photos and you can figure it out 












- complete , just need to put the last firewall grommets in and make a bracket for the LM1 cable and install the case vacumm line




now its time to finnish the wiring and put it on the scales .
« Last Edit: November 26, 2012, 11:55:22 PM by jim martin »




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Offline Shane

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #277 on: January 31, 2013, 03:23:31 PM »
Been 2 months.....updates, what does she weigh?
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #278 on: February 01, 2013, 08:13:02 PM »
Your right Shane its been awhile , i just got swamped in early December and finally took a good needed break with family and friends over xmas and into January ,but been out in the shop a few times for a hour or so .and really just got back into it last couple of weeks.
Yesturday i spend a good 6 hrs out there working on wiring , I've really simplified it now that the nitrous controls are out .like any project sometimes the smallest things take the most time and wiring is one of those. i fought with the signal wires to the dist for over 1 hour before i was happy ,but its well routed .gota keep things sano.
the scales are under the car and ready to go  ,i've got a weight in my head we'll see how close i am .hopefully the % frt to rear and side to side are in my target zone . i just need Silas to give me a hand bleeding the brakes and it could be dropped down onto its wheels , most likely will run it first on the stands as there is some adjustments to be done as well a very close leak inspection .
what's been done since last photos ?? ,quite a bit actually .
 finally engine bay wiring , routing of vacuum and boost lines ( ran them through the old clutch tube  ), pedal assemble removed and remodified ,boost controller installed/ grill modified and custom trim made ,oil heater cable installed,  shift light in horn button , secured all hoses through tunnel , picked up fuel , trans filled up , tested clutch management , coil remounted and i'm sure some things I've forgotten .
today finnished wiring and mounting the ignition box and cleaned out the inside of the car and even got the floor mats back in . and that leaves the final wiring under the hood .
i still have a few big items to do , install safcraft fire system ,data logging equipment and figure out where the hell i'm going to mount the fuel shut of cable and handle , really need the seat in for that one so i can see what's the best spot .oh and i need a pair of frt shocks ?i just remembered i gave those mexy originals back to Bruce  .
i have some photos but there not to exciting will try to get something up in the next bit as something's always better to look at than nothing .
will get more photos up of final assembly and scales etc as well as video of the first fire up .
April 5th is not to far away




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Offline silas

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #279 on: February 01, 2013, 11:25:38 PM »
lets do it and get the wok back down on all 4's!! i'll give you a ring tomorrow :cool:

Offline josh

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #280 on: February 02, 2013, 10:26:27 AM »
Looks incredible Jim!! Always admire your work and all the time invested to document and share the build here!!
Keep it up man and can't wait to hear this beast!!
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #281 on: February 25, 2013, 11:39:40 PM »
well as promised time for some crummy photos , but better than nothing .so many small things i just keep picking away at and slowly getting there .if i really wanted to run it its just a matter of adding some oil and fuel .but i'm kind of enjoying the no panic pace i'm on .
speaking of oil , i love doing research and this stuff may be the perfect air-cooled vw oil .lots of zinc [3,132 ppm], happy with flat tappets ,and the boys at Lucas tell me this oil continues to do its job even when diluted with race and methanol fuel

i could not find this oil in bulk in vancouver but a quick call to JEGS and it was good to go .i got a hell of a deal at the time
and paid under $100 for each pail .
LUCAS OIL
here you go Shane , scales are there and i hope it wont be long .

oil heaters wired up

shut off cable is routed and finally happy with the location of the fuel shut-off handle ,will final mount this weekend .

man i was wrong there is still allot of wiring .and going from frt to rear makes for a nightmare at times .
but 100% of wiring is in and tested ,just need final strapping down in final location to tidy it all up .
this was a good idea a terminal strip on the left inner fender .made for easy connection point from wiring coming up from back
of car to dash

this worked out well but took some time as i really didnt want to damage the paint , but the e-boost is in and ready to go.and finnished it off with a easy made stainless ring .finally got the alternator wiring correct and the red gen light works now.and you can see the shift light in the horn ring ,hope it works out or back to the drawing board on that one

well im happy with my TIG welding skills on steel and aluminum so figured best to dive in and do the rear muffler out of stainless .
muffler is a fully polished magnaflow 3" unit and also got 2 stainless 'J' bends from JEGS.my old a1 muffler is a perfect fit and will use it to make a jig for the new muffler  .should be fun .

last weekend is the first time i sat in the "WOK" in a long time , kinda nice .cant wait for the first run .
this weekend im going to bleed those brakes for sure and get the shut off cable finnished and prime the motor and check for oil leaks .
« Last Edit: February 26, 2013, 05:51:16 AM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #282 on: March 01, 2013, 10:49:25 PM »
  well good day today .it was a bit of a fight but finally got the shut-off handle mounted and cable secured ,between the bends in the cable and the tension bracket on the handle i'm not worried about anything moving on its own. the cable and handle are from JEGS and are parts from there parachute release kit .but the cable is sturdy enough for fuel shut-off and possible other uses .to remove the passenger seat i just release the quick release cable end on the handle and flip it down .

rear seats and carpets will go back no problem as the cable snakes quite smoothly

out to the engine bay and to the fuel shut-of valve that goes to the metering block .

used the old fuel regulator mounts and made a quick bracket for the o2 sender

gota like lists and man i seam to put more on them than i cross off , almost done .
also better add to my list my rear muffler and a pair of frt shocks ,better get out the tape measure and see what i need 

and i did get around to priming the engine today .put in 5.5 liters and plugged in the sump heater . 15 min i had 180 deg oil , wow .
flipped the oil pump and built 30 psi in seconds . what was cool was i was able to feel every oil line and they all were very warm which tells me all oil is moving well and the heat transfer to the rest of the motor is really good as well , very happy with the oil sump heater .and what luck , no leaks .
still going to bleed those brakes and then its almost go time .
« Last Edit: March 01, 2013, 10:54:11 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #283 on: March 17, 2013, 11:34:02 PM »
finally got those brakes bled , and yes i did fire it up .
it was quite a show .rpm , smoke , fire , noise but everything seamed to be ok .and it really sound good /loud.
which really made me think yes its time to get the muffler done before the wheels hit the ground .
got all the pipes cut and test fit and of course no argon in the tank so welding is on hold till next week .
i used my old A1 header .made a initial jig/template and with not to much work it came together quite well .
the 3" stainless pipe was easy to work with and cut with no problem .
one thing i was not happy with was the MAGNAFLOW fully polished muffler , the main reason i bought it was due to the fact it said its fully polished and the pictures show a fully polished unit . BUT unfortunatly only the main case and end caps are polished then its welded .so the welds and the inlet and outlet pipes are not looking so shiny .when i talked to magna flow they basically said ya we know but it should buff up ok , jackasses.
guess its time to break out the polishing wheel later on









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Offline Gaunch Launcher II

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #284 on: March 18, 2013, 09:01:51 PM »
Your really close.  You are doing some nice work Jim, can hardly wait to see it and smell the fumes as you go down the track.  Do you think alcohol is easy to pass air-care with?
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Offline josh

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #285 on: March 19, 2013, 10:49:45 AM »
lovin how you brought the header out in the regular NA collector location.....all looks super stellar Jim!!
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #286 on: April 09, 2013, 12:01:24 AM »

been awhile so i figured i would toss up a bunch of new photos to pass some time
its all muffler related and in the end from start to finnish most likely has taken 15hrs, theres alot of mock up and
test fitting , you only get to cut once .
well checked stainless welding off the list of things to learn .
its quite a process and involves a good amount of time being spent on tig setup , tempo , heat and shielding control .
i did use a great material called solar flux for shielding the inside of the welds and if anyone needs some info let me know .
the stuff is fantastic and allows you to eliminate the back purging process with argon .
well after a great deal of practice it was time to tack it together .
this is the stuff and as luck has it you mix it with methanol and form a thin paste
and you paint it on the inside of the material to prevent the sugaring process caused by lack of purging the oxygen

first pipe tacked and ready for trial fit, really important to have no gap with stainless steel welding 

first test fit ,so far so good

v band flange marked and time to weld it on, this is what the solarflux looks like applied to the inner surface
the light grey powder wipes away and the dark black is left there , it can be removed but it will flake away over time .
it is basically a very thin layer of glass .and i did remove some on my test welds and the welds look fantastic with no sighns
of sugaring or excessive weld penatration .

v band flange welded on , as long as the welds stay in the blue to straw color your doing alright .
a little more work and a different filler rod needed to weld a mild steel v band to a stainless tube

main pipe welded and back it goes for another test fit and to mark muffler position .
no turning back now .the weld on the transition pipe has been cleaned , and the whole assembley will polish up well

welded and tucked in a bit more than the old muffler


tip and bracket on 


i mentioned i used my old A1 muffler as a guide .it does tuck inside the rear fender more
and with the use of 3" tube over the original 2 1/4 " its turned out pretty close



all done and hung , thing will be a bit quiter now.




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Offline Geoff

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #287 on: April 09, 2013, 07:59:34 AM »
nice work!!!!

Offline Darren Dilley

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #288 on: April 09, 2013, 06:43:31 PM »
wow dude .. that's some killer work
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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #289 on: April 09, 2013, 06:46:14 PM »
Can't wait to see and hear this thing !!

"only dead fish swim with the stream"

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #290 on: April 10, 2013, 10:46:07 PM »
thanks guys
tossed some wrap on the main bend , figured i would leave it there and see if it grows on me .
probably will decided once its on the grd and see how it looks .if all measures well i should have almost
a wopping 3" of clearance under the sump and muffler , may need to raise the car now for street use .

« Last Edit: April 10, 2013, 10:52:21 PM by jim martin »




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Offline Jeremy

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #291 on: April 10, 2013, 10:51:24 PM »
Killer work Jim. I like the wrap.
'59 Beetle
'59 Single Cab

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #292 on: April 24, 2013, 06:25:37 AM »
no wrap .just shine.

bought a polishing kit from lordco for $17 and gave it a go .
the power drill did not spin fast enough to melt the wax polish bars but the angle grinder did
turned out way better than i hoped and saved me from taking it to a metal polisher .



yep looks better for sure





the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  10.323 sec at 132.56 mph.
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Offline Stephan Schmidt

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #293 on: April 24, 2013, 03:56:08 PM »
Absolutely beautiful work Jim!

I'm excited to see this car in action this summer!

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #294 on: April 24, 2013, 07:44:18 PM »
wont be long now , everthing i've been waiting for has arrived .
its going to be a good weekend




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  10.323 sec at 132.56 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #295 on: May 10, 2013, 11:40:36 PM »
well have made the first test flights and happy with the motors operation ,starts and runs very well ,sounds great and with short shifting and low boost and throttle limit it pulls very well .
have a small gearbox issue but will work that out and hit the track very soon to dial it all in .
here we go shane
on the scales

1727 without driver

1911 full race weight

just need to install safecraft fire suppression system




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  10.323 sec at 132.56 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinperformance.com

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #296 on: July 01, 2013, 11:16:27 PM »
wow 7 weeks and its on wheels again .June's a busy month for the martin family .engine and trans are back and the WOK is ready to go .was able to upgrade a few bits a wanted to do and happy with the improvements to the throttle and data logging .fingers crossed it will stay in gear this time .will know next week when i take it out for a drive .
one thing i promised myself is i would get the fire suppression system in before i take it out again and its finally installed .
system is a safecraft 5lb SFI system with 4 nozzles and pull cable activation ,did my homework and this company seams to be very well known for high quality .
i removed a electrical switch to the left of the ash tray and installed the pull handle , and i hope i never need to pull this handle .after sitting in the car this spot just made since due to the fact its not blocked or hard to reach and can easily be seen.cable was then able to loop in behind the fuel cell and into the car .

figuring the best place for the bottle was a bit of a chore to many options was going to put it right up frt but it just seamed wrong if you hit the wall head on . so followed the basic rules . keep it horizontal,cross wise in the car and try to go midway if running 2 lines .also since i did need a bit more weight at the right rear modifying the mounting bracket and attaching it to the battery box worked perfect .rear seat covers the bottle and also allowed for the pull cable to run along the tunnel .

nozzle placement is up to the owner as there is no set in stone rules .basically it goes like this .
FIRST , you need to be able to stop the car and if your feet are getting a bit warm you wont be able to push on the pedals so the first nozzle colored blue is to be mounted below the waist and aimed towards your feet .all the nozzles cover a unbelievable area of about 120 by 120 deg .you just dont want this spraying at your face for obvious reasons .you can also see the pull cable was able to use some old mounting point in the tunnel so nice for a change no to need to drill anything

SECOND ,engine bay .do to high voltage ignition and hot headers as well as the obvious multiple places for fuel leaks to happen the engine bay gets 2 nozzles colored red .ok i'm lost and i played for hours on the best place to put them,again used some old holes from where my nitrous lines would pass through and it really worked out well

 also did a little test spraying some nitrous and it really helped to figure best placement of the nozzles .i may end up putting both in between the motor and intake as this is where 80% of the lines are and everything gets covered by both nozzles and should even hit the deck lid and head down to my mechanical pump .for the time being i'm going to leave 1 up high and 1 in between .
will do a full test with some co2 or NOS and video the results and see what's the best  placement .the main thing is get them in there .
even as as shitty as the picture is you can see the coverage the nozzle on the #1@2 bank gives

up high on the left

and LAST the fuel cell .top or bottom ? who knows .so i'm told leaking fuel does not ignite by itself and since there is allot of wiring up top seams mounting the nozzle colored red up high covering the cell and with a slight aim down should work best

- please if you are installing a fire suppression system dont take my component placement as gold ,test your own and make your own choice.
i will test the system as i said and see how it works and try to post up the video .should be interesting to see and will make final position based on the final blow off test .
these systems do a unbelievable job of putting out fires but there real purpose is to give the driver valuable time to get out of the vehicle 




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  10.323 sec at 132.56 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinperformance.com

Offline silas

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #297 on: August 05, 2013, 09:16:47 PM »
Quote
the 'WOK"......10.867 sec at 121.45 mph

date stamp the above as of aug 3rd 2013...the wok is an official 10 second street/strip car that can blast around the streets of vancouver with passengers and back up 10 second runs at mission raceway!! wicked!!

 :band1: :singing: :cool:

Offline 52 split

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #298 on: August 06, 2013, 06:50:18 AM »
a thing of beauty for sure in many ways. but cruise the streets with no cooling or charging system. but what fun short bursts they would be.  Woot_Emoticon

Offline silas

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #299 on: August 08, 2013, 10:50:39 PM »
a thing of beauty for sure in many ways. but cruise the streets with no cooling or charging system. but what fun short bursts they would be.  Woot_Emoticon

please revisit page 9 of this thread for all your cooling & charging system needs aswell as a good definition of street/strip. ;)

i think you'd be pleasantly surprised at how well this car handles life of the streets! :cool:

 

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