Author Topic: Car Audio  (Read 4513 times)

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Offline ScreamnStroker

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« on: May 08, 2006, 10:10:27 PM »
Hey guys,

I'm trying to figure out how to wire this sub up and install it for a buddy, It's an old 8'' bass canon made by sparkomatic, from like the 80's  :P

I'm used to wiring up an amp with RCA cords, like I have done in the past with my system.
This one has an internal amp, and has a power and ground wire, and a Green and White wire. Anyone know where the Green and white wire go? These are the only wires comming out of the sub. Any help appreciated


Thanks guys,
Taylor
« Last Edit: May 08, 2006, 10:12:46 PM by ScreamnStroker »

Offline Chris

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« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2006, 10:13:59 PM »
that would be for a sub output off an amp or stereo, or if it has a built in crossover you could possibly use it bridged over your rear outputs on the stereo


does your dad know your dealing in borrowed goods?
« Last Edit: May 08, 2006, 10:14:59 PM by 1976BUS »

Offline ScreamnStroker

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« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2006, 10:21:27 PM »
Quote
that would be for a sub output off an amp or stereo, or if it has a built in crossover you could possibly use it bridged over your rear outputs on the stereo


does your dad know your dealing in borrowed goods?
Thanks Chris,

I believe this one has a built in cross over, Once we install the deck for him I will try plugging it into the sterio rear output. When I wired up my Amp and subs, I had a remote on  (blue one on the deck) But I guess this sub doesn't have it, Guess its too old man :P
« Last Edit: May 08, 2006, 10:22:06 PM by ScreamnStroker »

Offline Chris

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« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2006, 10:23:02 PM »
you would have to wire it into a ignition circuit so it shuts off

check the model on google, you should be able to find a install manual for it.

Offline Chris

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« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2006, 10:25:15 PM »
you might want to wire it into a switch as well or use the remote power lead and a relay to power it on and off otherwise it willbe on all the time.

Offline ScreamnStroker

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« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2006, 10:28:31 PM »
I've google'd it
HAHA i don't even think Spark-o-matic is around anymore, I didn't have much luck with google.
This was probably a Wal-mart deal back in the 80's

Offline Chris

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« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2006, 10:31:57 PM »
do something like this for power



where it shows the lights that would be the amp, and the switch would be the remote power from the stereo

 

Offline ScreamnStroker

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« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2006, 10:41:28 PM »
Thanks Chris.

I will try plugging those Green wires into a rear output and see if that works, If so i will use your diagram. Thanks

Offline ArsenicPants

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« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2006, 10:48:15 PM »
i have that exact same bass tube
mine doesn't work though, the internal amp is dead
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Offline Mowser

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« Reply #9 on: May 08, 2006, 11:21:44 PM »
That looks to be a high level input Taylor.  I would be willing to bet that all you need to do is provide a rear channel speaker output to the green and green/white wires and 12V +/- to the red and black.  I remember seeing those back in the day.  Whether or not it is still functional is another story.  Good luck and yes the relay would be a good idea.  I doubt very much that there is any sort of switching built in.  It is after all Sparkomatic.  High quality electronics from your friendly neighborhood Canadian Tire.
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Offline ScreamnStroker

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« Reply #10 on: May 09, 2006, 03:37:13 PM »
I don't even know if this is Canadian Tire quality, more like wal mart, man :P good thing it aint going in my ride :P

I tired hooking this up to my buddies speaker wires that hes got in his car& 12v power and didn't get anything... (didnt think i would)
I'll hook those green and white wire into the rear output channel and see what happens and let ya know.
Thanks guys,

Offline epic3

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« Reply #11 on: May 13, 2006, 06:37:22 PM »
green is left+ input and white is right+ input red is ignition or switched input @ 10amp current draw and black is ground. The internal amp if still working will get it's signal ground from the chassis and is designed to work with a low power head unit that can tolerate a chassis ground speaker system and this is a Canadian Tire unit from before the days of Walmart
 On the relay you'll be using to switch it on and off pin 30 goes to a fused battery+ terminal pin 86 goes to the remote out from your headunit pin 85 goes to ground and connect a diode across those two terminals with the cathode facing the remote and the output of the relay pin 87 goes to the power input of the tube.
 The diode is not manditory but will help minimize the poping when the amp powers up.
 Hope this helps dude

Offline ScreamnStroker

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« Reply #12 on: May 14, 2006, 04:21:38 PM »
Quote
green is left+ input and white is right+ input red is ignition or switched input @ 10amp current draw and black is ground. The internal amp if still working will get it's signal ground from the chassis and is designed to work with a low power head unit that can tolerate a chassis ground speaker system and this is a Canadian Tire unit from before the days of Walmart
 On the relay you'll be using to switch it on and off pin 30 goes to a fused battery+ terminal pin 86 goes to the remote out from your headunit pin 85 goes to ground and connect a diode across those two terminals with the cathode facing the remote and the output of the relay pin 87 goes to the power input of the tube.
 The diode is not manditory but will help minimize the poping when the amp powers up.
 Hope this helps dude
Thanks for the help!

Offline epic3

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« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2006, 01:46:56 AM »
no probs dude did it work?

 

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