Author Topic: Jim Martin  (Read 163603 times)

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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #300 on: August 10, 2013, 10:04:16 AM »
well the test and tune on the 9th was great .first time i think i did not have to mop up oil .on Saturday 3rd  evenning drags i was pushing oil out my dipstick but logged some very good info that i was able to use for the next outing .as well installed another sensor to measure crancase vac/pressure -- at present im lgging .lambda,rpm,crancase , boost .. with these 4 items you can get a very good handle on where your at .last outing i was at a lambda that was so rich i was filling half my oil catch can with raw fuel .the nozzles are capable of supporting 30-40 lbs boost and since im not anywhere near that i moved down to a smaller nozzle that will support around 20 to max 25 lbs .started each run as a mild pass just cruising and logging data , ran 3 next pills and each moved me toward my ideal lambda .now it was time to warm the tires and see what it will do .first run was probably the most ideal conditions , very little wheel spin ,launched straight and pulled very well 10.630@128 and felt smooth as could be .now back at the trailer the good news was there was no raw fuel in the oil tank when drained . oil blow bye is reduced as well and engine stayed in vacumm the whole pass even under boost so the rings can now do there job of sealing the motor.at launch im dragging the sump so suspension work is now top of the list .
had a absolute great day and of course had the best support  .my daughter Ashley and friend Silas .thanks guys could not do it without youbetween silas and ashley there is some phots im sure and will get something up soon
see you at the great canadian on the 23rd .i will be there for the test and tune and work on getting a vw area organised as well




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline silas

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #301 on: August 12, 2013, 11:30:28 PM »
it was a really fun day at the track. always happy to be a part of it...good times!!

also great to see the dilleys & pat the pit boss, the constants & terry hoogstins out there too!!

here are a few pics and a vid of a burnout (no, it's not a vid of me ;D) and a hard launch...then my camera packed it in...








*click on the pic below to see the vid...



Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #302 on: July 13, 2015, 08:34:29 PM »
cant think of a better way to break in a new motor than load the WOK up and head to mission
terrific day for a test and tune and bolted the muffler on and stayed for a pull for thr friday street legals
Boozer3 with all upgrades seams to be happy at this point now time to fine tune a few things

WOK testing at mission july 10th




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Offline josh

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #303 on: July 14, 2015, 10:12:52 AM »
Awesome JIM !!!! I was just wondering how the wok was the other day!!! Can't wait to see some passes in August!
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Offline silas

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #304 on: July 14, 2015, 09:19:42 PM »
beauty! nice pass jim and great work for a first day back at the track. lots more where that came from i bet!  :cool:

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #305 on: July 16, 2015, 09:54:35 PM »
Awesome JIM !!!! I was just wondering how the wok was the other day!!! Can't wait to see some passes in August!

Looking fwd to seeing everyone out there, josh are you going to make a few passes as well ?

I won't be touching my car for a bit ,knee surgery on Monday,best I get that clutch leg healed up quick




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline josh

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #306 on: July 16, 2015, 11:05:02 PM »
With any luck?!?!? Need some shake down time before harping on it

Heal fast on the clutch leg! ACL?
« Last Edit: July 16, 2015, 11:30:45 PM by josh »
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Offline Darren

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #307 on: July 17, 2015, 07:46:48 AM »
Probably more like old worn out Ski Bum knees!

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #308 on: February 23, 2019, 12:12:57 PM »
                                             the  "WOK"  is back 2019
QUEST FOR THE 9'S

Well its been a few years ,maybe a few to many since my last posts .
Figuring it’s time to have some fun , get some data ,picts and information up and fill in the blanks from the past as we roll into 2019.
 The”WOK” has gone through so many modifications ,ups and downs, disasters and triumph’s it would be impossible to go back and talk about them all .
but will touch on those when possible as the “WOK” comes together In pursuit of that magic single digit time slip  , 9’s.
 - at present the engine is out and the list of changes are finalized and taking shape . Collecting the last few pieces and then the assembly and fun starts .
Topics coming up are:
 engine , oiling issues ,suspension ,DIY alignment/suspension tools ,turbo upgrades, gearing,MFI upgrades and tuning , multy disc clutches ,ignition upgrades ,
pro wiring techniques , data logging tips and tricks , and many more.

Also in the works is some very unique pieces coming out of the “WOK” Garage .

-- A new performance shifter with the adjustability to change shifter reduction ratios from 25 ,40 and 60 % ,allowing the owner to experiment
and decide what works best for them without the need to purchase another shifter unit.

- integrated electronics into the shifter base for gear reference and data logging .

And the most exciting
- Dialed in Performance (D.I.P) fully electronic CLUTCH MANAGEMENT control system. Works with fully hydraulic or Co2 based stock cable systems.
 Allowing for complete clutch control in all gears while strapped into your car ,
with 3 versions of electronics available which can be tailored to your race class or driving preference . Standard , push-button launch , electronic timer launch control.



« Last Edit: February 24, 2019, 07:01:44 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #309 on: March 11, 2019, 06:54:40 PM »
New hotVW's arrived yesterday ,great GCVW write up and lots of great pictures,
way to go to Everyone that works so hard putting the show together every year!!!!

WOK's out having some fun

and who say Silas doesn't enjoy racing ,i know for a fact he does .
he may be the only air-cooled VW that beat the WOK .still upset about that :(

before i pulled the Boozer out i did do a quick leakage and compression test .
all cylinders less than 5% leakage and 130 psi 3 cranks , and that's with a cold motor .not bad .
im not a huge fan of the ring pack that’s in there but im not pulling heads for a re ring as it always leads
to more money being spent and sometimes i just dont want to know what my cylinder walls look like ,
not even going to look with the bore scope .

like i said the Boozers out and on the stand .why ?
not just for fun but for many upgrades and adjustments that can not be done in car.


- heli coiling all the exhaust threads in the heads ,
yep threads were done and having poor exhaust flange sealing was not helping me.

drill it -but hey make sure your square ,doesnt need to be rocket science

tap it - and yes use cutting fluid it will make the threads crisp and will not allow the aluminum to gall up

clean those cut threads with some brake kleen and blow dry , a dab of red loctite will help as well

heli-coil will wind in nice plus 1 turn more when last thread just disappears

snap the tang off and give it a wipe with a bit of rolled up paper towel and good to go .
you'll see why this needed doing soon .
done and finnished.

the MAIN reason the Boozer came out !
not sure if anyone has seen this but this is what the REV6 clutch looks like .
i started playing with this last year and yes its getting there .but need adjusting
more to come




« Last Edit: March 11, 2019, 10:39:23 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline kinggeorge13

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #310 on: March 11, 2019, 07:40:27 PM »
Great photos and sure looks nice and clean.   I've never yet used heli-coils but I'm sure one day I will and hope I can do as awesome as yours look!  I worry my first ones will be possibly for some spark plug hole threads one day.   Thanks for sharing! 
1975 Westy, Serenity
1975 Westy, Jack Sparrow
1979 Kombi, Pistachio
1979 Kombi, Oliver
1977 Tin top camper, Cosmos
1974 Westy, Garfield
1973 Tin top camper, Bart (now thinking he's 1976)
1974 gutted Riviera, Casper
1975 Westy, Stella
1979 Super Beetle, Penelope
1967 Fastback, Green Hornet

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #311 on: March 12, 2019, 07:52:44 PM »
tested those freshly heli-coiled threads and remounted the exhaust system and proceeded with the next stage .
from the side you can see the turbo i've been running is a old school on center exhaust housing unit.
nothing wrong with it ,and does offer some options when mounting space becomes a issue ,but by design can limit exhaust flow
during higher rpm and possibly engine output which directly limits horsepower potential .
im always asked what kind of turbo this is and what size , so if your in the turbo know here's the scoop.
the turbo is a combination Air research and Garrett - T4 flange ,P exhaust wheel with a .96 a/r exhaust housing - cold side a/r .60 with a new 57 billet wheel .

time to mount the down pipe and wastegate ,need those on there for mock up

gota keep the downpipe exit in the same spot right? yah but if nothings changed who cares?
sometimes things gotta go

time to eliminate the potential on center restriction and unleash any free power i can .
new .96 tangential exhaust housing ,so now you can see why the mock up was so important
its all gotta work and yes it will fit in the car still ,moves fwd almost 3" and lower by 3/4".
Mike Merrel at Turbos Direct is the man and if you need help , please call him at 623 376 2562
http://www.turbosdirect.com/
so my old turbo which is the same turbo needed help and no one out here could help.
One call to Mike and it was done .this gave me a chance to discuss my turbo and what it all means .
he fixed the thrust and endplay that was over .011" and oil leakage issue ,installed the new billet inlet wheel and supplied the
exhaust housing .
numbers go like this , as per Mike with the turbo in its original form would run out of compressor side before exhaust ,
(made no sense to me but what do i know),
so after endplay and thrust were repaired, he replacing the inlet wheel with a new billet wheel , that alone will allow for a
 25h.p potential and swapping out the exhaust housing another 25 h.p
so before the turbo was maybe good for 400-425 ish now it'll push 475 plus ish and do it  very efficiently , which is the most important
.it will make the same out-put 3 psi lower than before and never hit a wall till the inlet cannot move any more air .
sounds good to me so lets weld up a new pipe next .off come some DEI titanium wrap and trim the top
of the old downtube off to make room for the new pipe conversion





« Last Edit: March 13, 2019, 06:23:04 AM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline 70's Looker

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #312 on: March 15, 2019, 10:17:22 PM »
I didn’t know you got in a calendar, wurth to!
Zündfolge Car Club

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #313 on: April 07, 2019, 09:25:21 PM »
Finally got around to getting the exhaust mocked and  say 99% finished up.
   -used a bunch of bits old and new I had laying around and got it to finally fit .
Started by Machining a recess into a flat sided v-band to index and fit the turbo cast in v-band ,
Seems like it would be a snap to make fit ,but when your trying to scab a section into a previous made
Section its not always easy, especially with some compound curves to deal with .
First section welded up and kept the v-band firmly clamped to prevent warping during welding.

Back on for yet another mock up

Mocked and welded

New billet wheel ,nice shiny

Numbers on the outside of turbo housings cold or hot side generally mean squat
Im told always marked on the inside .this housing is a .60 cold side

Time to pull the old on centre exhaust housing off, that’s a “P” wheel exhaust impeller

Here’s a good shot of both housings ,you can see the on centre is taller ,so with the
New housing im dropping down a inch and back about 3”

To prevent the cast centre section from rusting as well as the cast exhaust housing
Hit them with some high heat header paint ,in this case clear

Wrap temp reinstalled and new exhaust downpipe fits great ,now I said 99% finished
I still need to weld the o2 bung on and strap the header wrap down after .
So Ill take the pipe off and over to the car for a hand fit and double check o2 location .

Spun around now time for a new intake ,all pieces cut .and working on mock up
Problem with turbo being lower it also has moved tighter to the 3@4 side of the motor
A little more testing and tig time very soon then shes going back in .





the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #314 on: November 27, 2019, 07:19:13 PM »
"THE QUEST FOR THE 9'S"
  well its no secret and even tho its like putting the cart before the horse we can still look at how and what it took to make it happen ,
and yes i was thrilled and a bit shocked that it did come together .
    always stick with the plan and take the time to make the correct steps in the correct order .
 after stringing multiple passes with all very low 1.4 sec 60'foots  and E.T's between
10.1-10.2 sec passes it was time for "the WOK" to get it done . a quick phone call , a last minute data check  and adjustment
and it was go time .
hell of a run , smooth straight and hey why not just skip the 10's and the 9.9's and dip into the 9.8's .
slowing down took a Little longer and i have to admit when i got the time slip i thought my time was the other racers but nope
it was my time .racing instantly over and time to celebrate owning a 9 sec car .
so now that i have some time will pick up where we left off and see what it took to get there .











« Last Edit: November 29, 2019, 10:28:34 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #315 on: November 28, 2019, 11:06:01 PM »
not to many pictures but started from the tightest side, orders my 2 1/2" mandrel bend in mild steel and started to realizing now this was going to be a bit more work than I originally thought.
compound curves , offset centreline adding new location for blow off valve ,AN fittings and just not much space.pain.
I ended up trimming the intake ends about 1" per side to get me some needed width or it wasn't going to go well .




no photos in between this and final product but ill tell you I walked away multiple times .
end result turned out very well and there is allot crammed onto it as well as fit the blow off valve offset and angled to get needed engine space.
yep desperate times and tigged it up with 0.23 mig wire .gotta stop being so lazy and get some 0.42 rod next time



hey look the motors in for this shot ,ok since this is not going in the exact order some pictures may be outa sequence but hey doesn't really matter.
now you can see why the blow off valve needed to move from the old centred position for the old intake .it sits about 1-2" lower and would not clear fuel
distribution lines, tucking it in behind the alternator stand worked very well ,at this point is where I tested where the AN fittings needed to go and would more
importantly clear everything .marked out locations for the 2xAN-4 and 1xAN-6 .out she comes for a drilling and welding again and a final ceramic high heat spray.

« Last Edit: November 28, 2019, 11:46:18 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #316 on: November 29, 2019, 12:13:14 AM »
now that the INTAKE is taking shape it was time to finish of the new fabbed EXHAUST turbo outlet pipe .
so once again motor needed to be in , so again will just jump back a bit then fwd again .
previously the motor was out and gone through with some good internal upgrades and new clutch system.
and while it was out I added the 4 EGT probes into my new data logging system .
location was marked 1.5 " from flanged, drilled and welded the EGT bungs



rewrapped the pipes and made a jig that sat inside the header so I could index the probes at the middle of each pipe .
once there are snugged up once the ferrule grips the probe so the depth will never change even when removed and installed .
testing those help coiled heads now ,no more leaks and loose hardware



last thing was to mount the turbo onto the header and fit the new EXHAUST turbo outlet pipe to get the o2 sensor bung best position .
make sure its between the 10 and 2 o'clock position to keep water or fuel from collecting in the probe .is there a good spot from a turbo .
ya but in my case farther down would of been better but hey its only for some ruff overall info and will depend on my plugs and EGT temps for
real state of tune



here we go a shot of the final result COMPLETED/ checked of the list INTAKE and EXHAUST pipe .
hey tested fitted the new exhaust turbo blanket and also lines are fully attached to intake ,
lots more needed doing at this point and much was done before ,will decide which direction later







the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #317 on: November 29, 2019, 11:14:56 PM »
THE PLAN . Obviously I had a plan ,still not clear. ill fill you in
  this was the long range plan to hit the target 9's. and yes its long but this is what it takes .
all these items come from all the previous passes data and results , every pass means something and there is always something learned and noted down.
seams you just keep chipping away at it slowly over time .
 I knew my rpm drop from 3rd to 4th was to great ,and I needed to change the 4th gear ratio to make every gear % of pull equal , as well as I needed to
narrow the power band to work within the new tighter gear stack ,free up any possible exhaust restriction and raise EGT and trim over rich fuel curve.
Also to make it more fun ,I would stick to the D.O.T 6" m@h tire ,full pan car , no narrowed or raised rear torsion ,full synchro box.and keep the car streetable.
here we go ....

 - replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few off already








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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #318 on: November 30, 2019, 11:26:38 AM »
well starting from the top of the list you see it all stems from taking the gearbox out .
- the gear box I'm sure has been discussed a bit a few pages back but this was my findings in moving fwd.
it was starting to shift and feel a bit notchy , no grinding ,and yes I was running a stock shifter to keep my shift rate
as smooth as possible but I was quite aggressive still  .but I was running a Kennedy dual disc which is alot of mass for the synchros to control .
also all the ship point seammed evenly spaced but when shifted into 4th there was a big rpm drop .
I just had the feeling it was pulling me way out of my torque window of 5200 rpm.

so THE PLAN ,increase shift speed to Lessing time not accelerating, gearbox out and inspect, replace all seals and synchros and exchange 0.93 for a 1.00 4th gear
- again thanks as always Terry Hoogstens for his time . I was completely thrilled that Terry only found Synchros slightly bent
no ring damage and 4th gear exchange a snap .while I cleaned Terry reassembled and performed the needed adjustments .
- with the Gearbox checked off the list it was time to head home and reinstall .
I have been sponsored by Lucus oil for years now ,but one thing they haven't been able to supply is a transaxle oil .
a little leg work and I have found the perfect product .100% WOK certified as the stuff to use .
like I was saying no wear in my transaxle !!,this is nuts I cannot tell you how much abuse and passes this unit has put up with .
 this oil does what it says it does .USE IT if you want your gearbox to live and shift like there's no tomorrow.
click torco and read up on it ,you'll see why
TORCO
here is the best gear calculator on the web and what I use
im not going to go over it but play with it
use my gear ratios and values and you will see what I found about % of pull between gears.
 then look at the peak mph in 3rd gear say at 7000 rpm then look up the mph in 4th gear ,you will now see
how the gearing can either pull you out of or put you back into your torque window
use 4.13 ring and pinion,26 tire height,7500 shift rpm and gears 3.44 - 2.08 - 1.35 - 0.93 ( then swart 4th to 1.00)
you will see what I have done ,basically kept the engine from dropping bellow 5200 rpm for the 3-4 shift .
https://weddleindustries.com/gear-calculator
GEARBOX completed

- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few off already
« Last Edit: December 02, 2019, 03:17:42 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #319 on: December 02, 2019, 01:31:24 PM »
motor . here is some pict's I haven't seen in a while .
there are 2 ways to go , don't even look and hope for the best or pull it apart and inspected know ,this is what was found last time .
camshaft cracked on the thrust ,crap

 

magnum timing gears done ,double crap





on a brite note all main bearings ok , rod bearings not bad
so clean up the case and start to slowly reassemble, this is where the time goes.
case is old school ARPM solid aluminum  , you can see i always calico coat all my main bearings , all type 4 steel backed
as well as sleeved lifter bores and center thrust conversion ,6 studded as well .



ok using a quality set of timing gears this time , WOK tested from the good boys at CE
COMPETITION ENGINEERING
3442 E. Wood St.
Phoenix, AZ 85040 map PHONE: 602.454.155

they've helped me out many many time and make high quality and spec parts as needed -- Dan Larson, the owner and super cool guy makes my custom copper head gaskets to my specs
as well as a ton of cool parts , if your in a bind call him up he'll most likely be able to help and get it done ASAP-- thanks Dan !!!



nice new cam HMMMM specs super secret , pre clearanced with a bit of extra in 2 spots ,more to come



CE gear fits real nice



JIM ADD MORE HERE




« Last Edit: December 03, 2019, 08:50:27 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #320 on: December 04, 2019, 10:16:19 AM »
VWP #160 cam , must be super secret


at this point all camshaft bearing work has been performed -- case has been assembled and disassembled multiple times .
testing both the crank and camshaft for ease of rotation when case torqued , again covered earlier in engine build topic .
for the first time cam and crank are in , #1 pointing up ready to slip on the connecting rod ,followed by the case half , #1 cam int and exhaust lifters and a few case nuts to clamp it together .



why , so I can install a piston , cylinder and a pushrod  to check and adjust cam timing .
this is a long topic , cam selection, rpm and torque , setting cam opening and closing events .
if you want me to get into it let me know , but for now lets see what I set my VWP #160 super secret fast cam to .
hey looks like I decided on 25 deg BTDC for the intake



and for the important closing 65 deg ABDC for intake closing


so what changed - my original cam was ground on 112 lobe with 22 /66 timing events for both int and ex
lift was .385 so if you know your cams this is pretty much a Emngle fk10 ground on 112 lobe running straight up or 4 deg retarted from timing card.
so why switch , nothing wrong with that cam ,very wide broad power band ,but for me felt like it rolled over in the upper rpm .
as well I don't think it was 100 % on for my gearing .so since I had changed my gearing and needed a new cam I contacted
Jason at VWP / paradise motorsports .why because my old cam was from them and in fact worked well and these guys are a great information source as well .
I ran over my plan and what I wanted.
I wanted a tighter power band making more torque from 5200 rpm up to 7500 rpm . so it was decided to step up a hair from what I had .it is always
good having something to compare against .
so 112 lobe went too a 110 lobe . lift changed from .385 to .398 and duration increased from 268 to 270
so its kinda like a fk10+ on 110 lobe with a hair more lift.
lifters are SCAT with the slr treatment , resurfaced , parkerized and polished.

jumping ahead here to engine in and ready to fire .HERE is a good tip /what I do : yes grease the lobes and lifter face with the camshaft break in paste LUCAS grease but only lightly oil the lifters before dropping into the case
as well as oil the pushrod cup at both ends and fill the pushrods with oil . in my case as well I remove inner springs and run .006 -.008 lash .
reason is you want those lifters to rotate as soon as it cranks and assembly lube may prevent that .
I start the motor run for 10-15 min varying rpm between 2500-3000 .shut it down and let it completely cool overnight .
next day same thing and finally 3rd day drive it around rolling on and off throttle getting some ring seal and keeping rpm above 2000 rpm .
home , jack it up dump break-in oil , and let cool down ,adjust valves to zero lash, and I have the luck of being able to remove my drysump pick up and yes can see all the lifters .
all good so new 30 wt Lucas break-in oil and filter , preheat oil and drive it hard .camshaft is broken in but still on single springs but now work on ring seal .good 30 min cruise hard
long slow acceleration and declaration have some fun and home .
back up on the stands .valve covers off , cool down completely overnight , remove rockers and retorque heads .install inner springs . reinstall
rockers reset lash .
cam is well broken in , rings are seated , now time for a drive it like you stole it run ,alway the most fun .

back to engine assembly
- crank prep final assembly, rods on and yep that's a home made rod bolt stretch gauge
and bang .005" bolt stretch  / its around 45 lbs 
picture of the calico coated rod bearings

old shcool scat 88mm flanged crank and old school 5.7" eagle H beam connecting rods



sorry again not a lot of photos but bam , short block just bolted together and  ready for the top end
looks like AutoCraft dry sump pump is installed , thats half the hard work done



« Last Edit: December 17, 2019, 03:11:39 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #321 on: December 10, 2019, 03:20:20 PM »
OK , gotta dig through some old photos for pictures of pistons rings ect ect will add them in-between when i check old phone and laptop .

 CE custom copper head-gaskets , in order to get the correct size/fit you need some info:
bore in head - cylinder wall thickness and O.D of cylinder , measure it all up and supply CE / Dan Larson with the details .
wall thickness is larger on a pauter cylinder -- even thicker than auto-craft and way thicker than cima ,
that helps in keeping things from shifting as well as deforming under high load/ cylinder pressure .
-- jim add cylinder wall data here --
.
found a good picture of the bottom of the Pauter cylinders i was talking about , when ordering custom length not only can you now
eliminate those crappy barrel base shims and have your cylinders sit nice on deck of your block but can also order the cylinder skirt in the
length you want . mine are level with the very bottom bored edge in my block , this is a huge plus as it allows for full piston support during piston at
BDC . so instead of the piston pulling out past the short cylinder skirt its now fully supported , no rock there !!

now if you measure it all correct the end result is a nice tight fit ,also fyi: the copper gaskets will not measure .1445" in my case but will in fact
measure  about .002-.003 smaller to allow for expansion when torqued .that way there is no overhang into the combustion chamber when torqued.
hey looking nice , gots be happy with CE quality - THANK DAN!!!



« Last Edit: December 17, 2019, 03:10:04 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #322 on: December 16, 2019, 10:16:54 AM »
this is and may always be the most important part of any motor -- RING SEAL --!!!!!!!!
in the end if it aint round your screwed , you will always burn oil , have low and uneven compression and leakage, oil leaks  ,
 low performance and worst high crankcase pressure .
over the years i have majored in crankcase pressure control and it all starts right here .
----!!!!!----ROUND CYLINDERS----!!!!---
start by making or borrowing a quality cylinder torque plate set-up made out of heavy plate .
cameron made this set and its specific to pauter cylinder due to there thicker wall.

grade 8 hardware for testing can handle 50lbs easy

also if you have ever seen a boring / honing sunnen machine it requires of course the block to be firmly mounted.
no can do with a free standing cyinder .usally they get hand held which of course does not make anything round.
so my torque plates do 2 things .1st allow for mounting to the sunnen machine .and yes this made Dave at
high performance engines in bby very very happy .he loved the setup .
hey  only 4 studs must be for the 2nd reason .

hey there ar
« Last Edit: December 17, 2019, 07:34:55 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #323 on: December 19, 2019, 03:09:36 PM »
well knowing is everything and taking someones word for something may not always be the best thing to do .
now in my case the engine is 6 studded , hey gotta be the way to go , big race motor, big boost  ect ect .
well i noticed a few things , rattle on cold start and slightly uneven compression and uneven leakage numbers .
car still ran very well and made power but had some crankcase pressure issue ,i know this 2 ways oil puke tank overflowing as well as
my logged data showed positive pressure in the case anytime after 3000 rpm and 12 lbs boost ,engine originally ran at this time a wet sump
with a large 4 quart pan and my highly self circulating oil separator blow by unit .hey it worked but was kinda sick of it .
engine came apart for cylinder head repair , yep melted that one and complete go over .
Autocraft cylinders were done , heavy alcohol damage as well as piston to cylinder wall clearance over .009" .
also cylinder skirts were very short and with the thick spacer there was no support for the piston at BDC .
thats when i switched to Pauter .
apon measuring and inspecting the old autocrat cylinders i was worried as there was some strange wall markings - looked as tho there was no wear in spots and some spots
excessive wear .since the engine was in pieces i slipped 2 cylinders into a case half and a good head and torqued it to 32 lbs on the 4 main studs and 18" on the 6th studs
and measured from the inside of the case with the bore gauge .yep found the issue .
thats when i contacted Cameron and asked him to make a new set of torque plates ,
with my new Pauter cylinders it was time to test .
yep waited for Sherri to be outta the house and even went a bit farther by warming the cylinders in the oven to 100 deg
then into the torque plate .i measured in 3 heights - top middle and near bottom as well as 3 angles ,  2 at 90 deg apart then at 45 deg .
-- THIS IS WHAT I FOUND---
torqued the plate just as in the motor 4 mains at 32 LBS first and then the two 6th studs at 18 lbs .
yep this is no good cylinders no longer round .it was all over the map
you need to understand the needle is set at zero and anything to the left is smaller and anything to the right is larger than set cylinder bore diameter.
i played around for hours and tried different torque sequence and torque values even different cylinders ,this was a disaster i would have a avg of
-.0015 to+ .0015 when measuring the cylinder at different positions and heights .
--FOUND THE PROBLEM WITH RING SEAL AND HIGH CRANKCASE PRESSURES---
the fix ::
Started by torquing the 4 main studs to 15 then 25 lbs  and measure --still 100% round in every spot
-- torque to 30 then up to 35lbs on the 4 main studs -- dead on at zero
torqued 6th studs to 10lbs -- AND Bang CLOVER SHAPED by over .001" in spots,wtf.
so at least problem has been diagnosed . so from this day fwd have not torqued /used the 6th studs
basically a lightly dab of loctite and finger tight only .
So if i was going to use the 6th studs would need to get have cylinders delivered ruff bored undersized
torqued fully to 35 and 18 lbs in my torque plates and bored and honed to size .
to much work , why not just order and install quality headstuds , since i torched one perfect timing to  upgrade
ordered in my custom length http://raceware-fasteners.com/ the best you can get in 205,000 psi
these will clamp down any head without issue ,
-- head stud photo here
« Last Edit: December 20, 2019, 08:47:12 AM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #324 on: December 20, 2019, 11:45:50 PM »
like I said im pulling photos from all over and just as of today have located like 1000 plus photos , crazy but cool to look at .
again this is a no real order kind of deal but here we go .
this is the original autocrat cylinders and spacers .see what I mean now .no skirt to support the piston at BDC

again nothing wrong with autocraft cylinder , mine were just done and custom not a option from them ,time to move on.
here is a shot of a cima and a autocraft , I will assume im comparing ring end gap etc but good to see .

yep things did not go well ,torched head left a mark as well as some methanol damage .heavy wear to boot.
could be machined out but there is nothing left ,if machined piston to wall would be way over .010" too much .


pistons and rings next followed by heads




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #325 on: December 21, 2019, 08:24:57 AM »
ok what pistons to use to take the abuse .
how about a set of old school JE pistons build for turbo use .
that usually means thicker area under the piston crown and good wrist pin support

yep there old and taking a beating have some love scuffs but not dead yet
nice thick crown above the top ring helps keep the piston alive by taking the shock and heat energy
also this piston is what we call a full skirt which means the whole lower section of the piston is fully supported = very strong and less rock

ring pack is a nice 4mm oil , 2 mm 2nd ring and a 1.5mm top with a 5mm crown , ringback area of piston recessed to allow for heat expansion

replace the wrist pins with a much stronger pin , better be safe .there is a lot of force on those .not a place to skimp.
pins are held in with spiroloc type retainers from JE .


pistons also receive the calico treatment ,this really helps by adding a tuff layer between the cylinder wall and piston
in time of low or poor lubrication as well as taking up any excessive wall clearance you may have.i think it can be applied in 3 thicknesses.
light med and heavy . range from .001-.004"

b better make sure you cc the piston relief as well .
need that for that important compression calculation. mine are 4cc

found some other shots ,almostly always overlooked is ring groove depth and side clearance.
looks like im measuring my ring depth .fyi: on my pistons all ring groove depths are different .both the top ring and 2nd ring require custom back cut rings.
always make sure your rings fit fully into and below ring grooves in pistons.hey that's a Childs and Albert Z gap in there


I use various thin pieces of brass shim stock for checking ring side clearance .

well rings must check out as looks like its end gap time .


-- jim add piston ring info here--

everyone always freaks out about rings ,its not rocket science.
#1 use a material to handle the environment its working in
#2 if the cylinder aint round you will always have issues
#3 if in doubt use manufactures recommended end gaps

pretty simple ,ok I have been asked multiple times what rings i use and my end gaps .
for a stk application use grant or deeves rings i believe they are a ductile ironcast ring
for a street 94mm setup use the cima mahle ring pack they are excellent
for racing swap it out to total seal AP steel top ring either in gapless or conventional.
- my favorite setup is still standard tension oil ring , Zgap childs and Albert 2nd ring and total seal AP steel conventional top ring .
childs and albert are out of business but Bruce walker owns the rights and still makes them ,will need to contact him and see if hes still around .
every time a build or freshen up a motor i always buy 2 of everything so im never stuck .
last time with rings a bought a completely back up set to try .well its time and stuffed them in .
standard tension oil control ring ,standard tension 2nd ring in Napier design and a gapless top AP ring , all total seal .
i cannot comment on this setup until motor comes apart and i can inspect cylinders and piston for wear and blow-by.
i really worry how the gapless top ring effects the sealing of the 2nd ring due to elimination of blow-by pressure from the top ring seating the 2nd ring .
- think of this ,cylinder pressure is what seals the rings against the cylinder wall.so trapping equal pressure on both sides of a ring or between rings
Will cause loss of force pushing the rings outwards against cylinder wall. So, knowing this .top ring gets gapped say at
.024 2nd ring at .028 and oil at .015 .yes top ring takes the heat and closes up a tad but you can see how cylinder pressure moves through
the ring pack sealing the rings against the wall and finally helping blow oil back through the oil control ring



« Last Edit: January 02, 2020, 01:33:15 PM by jim martin »




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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #326 on: December 22, 2019, 08:01:46 AM »
    Cylinder Heads ,everyone make such a big deal ,well there are a big deal because in the end they will be the last component you install that
will gauge you engine performance.there is of course a whole science behind head selection which comes down to strength needed ,valve size and port flow.
so not my area but I understand it .bigger is not always better and you be surprised on how well a small valved head will work .
    My poor beat up Frankenstein heads are on their last legs .and without the skills of Darren K they would be door stops.
but sometimes and in this case its not so easy just to bore and toss another set of heads on as the engine is already built around there dimensions
and its just plain to much work ,but maybe next engine overhaul ill tackle it and swap them out to a set of comp eliminators I have .
  These are the WOK's heads ,they are a set of very old original heavily modified ARPM heads, later they became super flow and then copied by CB performance as comp eliminators.
These ARPM style heads have a very well known issue of being very week in the top corners , so as you can see in order to stiffen them up and give extra support a casing was welded around the
fins as well as bosses welded on for the 6th studs all attempting to give more strength to a weak design.
  Some time ago I had talked with dominic lupino , [sorry for sure wrong spelling] .about a single replacement head stud .
At that time I think he was still owner of Bugpack .I also asked him about the original ARPM heads and he says Jim that's why that version of the ARPM head was scrapped and later replaced with the new super flow stronger version ,as eventually the ARPM heads will flex ,give or something and burn through at the top outer stud ,HMMMM seams I have had this .
Dominic advised me to replace head studs and increase torque so this time went to Racewear custom head studs ,and yes I bought spares !!! just in case .

« Last Edit: January 02, 2020, 07:55:45 PM by jim martin »




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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #327 on: January 03, 2020, 02:53:00 PM »
melted heads 2x yep not pretty both times but lessons learned .
first time not sure why just know it was loud .slid head back and this is what I found ,OUCH.
anyway fixing is 1 part most important is learning why .
at this point worried about ignition and fuel not head issues as was not aware of that at this point .
sent my complete fuel system to Don at Hilborn fuel injection ,for complete inspection and flow data and set-up .
got all my data from Don as well as found out my boost sensor valve failed causing a leant under boost which equals
head melting time .
Yep Darren fixed the Head and with a new set of Bugpack race head studs engine back together to run again .

so how do you prevent this well like I said have the data from Don at Hilborn injection of my fuel system.
some of the data is fuel pressure at the barrel valve at specify rpm and boost levels .
having this I new at 6000 rpm and 20 psi boost = 74 psi and at 7000 rpm and 20 lbs boost=79 psi
as well as with no boost =around 50 psi
so simple directly above shifter in a old ashtray I modified and installed a digital fuel pressure display .
sensor of course in engine bay .
so easy every time  I shift into 4th gear a quick glance to make sure im over 70 psi and im good to go




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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #328 on: January 04, 2020, 12:29:18 PM »
   well ,why the second time ? head stud failure or in my case loss of clamping pressure due to
poor maintenance practices or Chinese steel head studs , doesn't matter will not allow this to happen again .
when I pulled the motor and checked , torque on all head studs were all low .
Yep Darren fixed me up yet again ,Thanks Bud !!!
   how about some failure shots
heads studs seam a bit hurt

 yep that's a melt through #2 on #2

Darrens handywork , or in my case miracle dept .

  well like I said it was Quest for the 9's  ,all lessons learned ,major repairs done now time for final upgrades and assembly.
plugs have been in and out so many times time to timesert  the 14mm spark plug threads before its too late  .thanks Dave at high performance engines

once installed just double check to make sure the timeserts are not hanging into combustion chamber , if so break out the Dremel





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Stephan Schmidt

Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #329 on: January 04, 2020, 03:19:48 PM »
I love all of your updates Jim! Thanks for posting!